GL1800 Mud Flap
I noticed that after every ride the back-end of the GL1800 gets very dusty and with water on the road it gets worst. I realize that motorcycles attract road dirt, but I wanted to cut down on it as much as possible. Fellow wingers suggested that a mud flap would help reduce the amount of road dust to the rear-end of the GL1800, so that is what I did. I searched the Internet for a suitable mud flap. I found that there was little selection and was surprised of the cost. Some of the mud flaps had fancy names like Debris Modulators; I guess to justify the cost. The mud flaps looked nice, but my wallet is small so I decided to make one my self.
|Pep Boys Auto Parts||Mud Flap for RVs/ large trucks||$9.99|
|Pep Boys Auto Parts||Reflectors||$4.69|
|Home Depot||Aluminum 1/8” x 3/4” x 36”||$2.79|
|Home Depot||Machine Screws/with nuts #10-24 x ¾”||.89|
|Home Depot||Cap Screws ¼” x 1-1/2” stainless||4.24|
The Mud Flap:
I bought a set of large mud flaps the are designed for RV/large trucks. I looked for a mud flap that was not too heavy. I trimmed the mud flap to be about 10” wide and 11” long.
The mud flaps come in pairs; I only used one mud flap, so I have a spare and in the future I might add some chrome and LEDs to the spare mud flap, you know, make it look like a Debris Modulator.
At first I wanted a plan mud flap with no lights or reflectors. I wanted to keep it simple, and then I saw some high reflective material that is almost paper-thin and weights almost nothing. I decided to give the reflectors a try and see how well they hold up.
Home Depot has a selection of steel and aluminum plates in all different sizes. I bought two pieces of 1/8”x3/4”x36” aluminum. I decided to go with aluminum, for the following reasons:
- To keep the weight down.
- It is easier to cut and drill.
- If something were to get caught, in the mud flap, aluminum will give (more forgiving) more than steel.
I used 5 pieces of aluminum to make the mud flap bracket.
- For the horizontal braces I used 2 pieces, one shorter that the other.
- For the vertical braces the two the same size.
- For the center support, one small piece
I used 1/4”x 3/4” stainless steel cap screws and c-clip nuts to secure the mud flap horizontally. Machine screws/with nuts (#10-24 x ¾”) were used to screw the mud flap to the braces.
- I removed the rear tire/fender. It has 5 screws, 2 on the top, 2 at the bottom, and 1 behind the license plate.
- I removed the c-clip nuts at the bottom of the bike. I could not fine stainless steel 6mm x 25mm cap screws, so I used ¼” c-clip nuts and screws.
- If I had to do it again I would only drill the holes indicated in the above illustration last. It makes aligning the vertical support easier.
- I cut the mud flap to size and screwed on the two horizontal aluminum piece.
- I put the c-clip nuts on the ends of the longer piece and installed it on the bike without the fender.
- At the cross member bard above the mud flap I screwed on a vertical brace on both sides.
- At this point I used a large Crescent wrench and angle the brace so it would align.
- Once the vertical braces are aligned drill the holes where you need them. (I did not do that so the braces look an off alignment. I does not really matter because they an not be seen.)
- I removed the bottom 2 crews and the mud flap stayed in place. I installed the fender and all the screw and I was done.
I hope you get the idea. Times like these I wish I had a digital camera.