Romanian M69 22LR Trainer Trigger Mod
I scoped my M69 and very pleased with the results. My next project is to work on the trigger. I don’t know if all the Romanian M69 trainers are the same. My rifle is stamped 1985 and based on some the forums I’ve visited my M69 is considered one of the newer models. I get exceptional group shots at 50 yards and a trigger job should make the grouping even better. Before starting the trigger mod, I had to analyze the current feel of the trigger and understand how it works.
Based on my 1985 M69 I want to accomplish the following:
- Removed the gritty feel, on the trigger.
- Removed or reduce the side wobble on the trigger.
- Removed or reduce the forward trigger travel.
- Removed or reduce the rear trigger travel.
The purpose of this write up is to provide information only and to share my failures and successes. I would not have attempted to work on the trigger if the rifle was a collector or an expensive rifle.
As I mentioned the trigger pull, is not bad so polishing the sear and trigger should reduce the trigger pull and remove or eliminate the gritty feel.
Before doing anything, I needed to understand how the sear and trigger work on the Romanian M69 Trainer.
The mechanism is very simple. This how it works:
- Pull on the rigger.
- The trigger presses down on the sear.
- The sear pivots backward.
- The sear releases the striker
- The striker moved forward hitting the firing ping.
- The rifle goes bang.
I like working with tools and have all kinds of gadgets and gizmos in my toolbox. I used the following tools, for this project.
- Dermal and several polishing wheels (course, medium, and fine)
- Small round file
- 8-32 drill and tap
Lets get started, remove the sear and trigger, from the trigger housing.
A. The striker, on the bolt, rides on this section of the sear pushing it down. Instead of having a smooth curve it had machine marks and was boxy. I polished this section to create a smooth ramp.
B. This is what catches the striker. The surface looked terrible. The machine marks were so rough it looked like the surface of a metal file. This could cause the gritty feel, big time.
C. The trigger arm pushes down on this section of the sear. The surface was also very rough and it was also cut at an angle.
Most of the work was done on the trigger.
C. This section of the trigger is what pushes down on the sear. The surface was full of machine marks (gritty, gritty, gritty). It also had two humps. I smoothed out the humps and polished to a mirror finish.
B. I polished the surface and rounded the end.
D. Here is where I want to remove or reduce the side wobble of the trigger. The sleeve on the trigger pivot hole is meant to center the trigger. I figured if I added washers I could reduce some of the wobble.
A. After some thought figured there where several ways to remove the forward slack on the trigger. I chose to build more mass, on top of the trigger, to prevent it from moving forward. As it is the sear arm on the trigger move forwarded until it hits the to of the trigger housing.
Issue: I had to trim the steel putty down further than this pictures show. The reason is because the safety lug would not allow inserting the bolt in the receiver.
I used a small round file to enlarge the opening on the washers. The washers fit snug and used some super glue to keep them in place.
Issue: I had to trim the washers. The sear spring could catch on the trigger lugs.
I used the dremal tool to trim the washers.
The Trigger Stop:
I see three different ways to do this.
- The steel putty will secure the locknut, to keep it always in place.
- The setscrew will have tension and resistance, from the locknut, keeping the setscrew from backing out or moving.
- Might look more bulky. (Maybe)
- Use steel putty with no locknut.
- Drill and tap thru the trigger guard and steel putty.
- Might look neater. (Maybe)
- The setscrew might loosen after time or back out.
- Use steel putty, rubber, or something else to shorten the distance from the trigger to the trigger guard.
- No drilling required.
- Setting the stop will require filling, sanding, and/or cutting material.
Once I set the trigger stop, I doubt I will be changing it often (maybe never). A dab of lock tight will keep it from losing up.
If I did not have an 8-32 tap I would have drilled a 1/8 inch hole and used the lock nut with steel putty, but since I already had the tap, I opted to tap the trigger guard also. The lock nut could be in the inside or outside of the trigger gaud. I decided to put in the inside.
There are a couple of methods to make a trigger stop mechanism. I opted for the easiest and simplest method. I lack the tools to create a more complex mechanism.
So far these are my results of my trigger mod.
- Removed the gritty feel, on the trigger .................................. Eliminated
- Removed or reduce the side wobble on the trigger ................. Reduced about 85%
- Removed or reduce the forward trigger travel......................... Reduced about 85%
- Removed or reduce the rear trigger travel.............................. Eliminated